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How a "cooking influencer" triggered the vanillin boom over 100 years ago

The history of vanillin, one of the world's most widely used aroma substances, is inextricably linked to the invention of vanillin synthesis by the chemist Wilhelm Haarmann. His achievement in 1874 was the foundation stone for today's flavor and fragrance industry and for the company that is now Symrise. But to achieve the big breakthrough, he needed help.

Although the success was scientifically groundbreaking, there were reservations about artificial vanillin among the general public at the time. So Haarmann needed a marketing stunt and hired a cookbook author. Back then, Lina Morgenstern (1830 - 1909) was what food influencers on social media would be today. She was a well-known personality who made a name for herself as a social reformer, activist, educator and author. Her word carried weight, which Haarmann took advantage of and commissioned Morgenstern at the turn of the century to write the cookbook "Kochrezepte mit Anwendung von Haarmann & Reimers patent. Vanillin".

The small and inexpensive book contained 39 recipes dedicated exclusively to the use of vanillin. As the flavouring agent was still a relatively new ingredient the book played a crucial role in popularizing it. Morgenstern presented a wealth of recipes that showed how vanillin could be used in everyday cooking. From simple cakes and pastries to exquisite desserts and confectionery, the book offered housewives of the time many ways to incorporate the exotic flavor of vanilla into their dishes without having to resort to the expensive and rare real vanilla bean.

Vanilla is one of the finest, tastiest and most aromatic spices, which is why the finer culinary arts use it in the most diverse ways.Lina Morgenstern, Author

The foreword to the book is called "For the thinking housewife", where Morgenstern writes: "Vanilla is one of the finest, tastiest and most aromatic spices, which is why the finer culinary arts use it in the most diverse ways." The fruit is difficult to preserve and expensive, but now vanilla is available as a domestic product. Morgenstern explains the vanillin synthesis: "Not that we can pick the finished vanilla pods in our climate, but thanks to the important invention of two German researchers, Dr. W. Haarmann in Holzminden and Professor Dr. Ferd. Tiemann at the Royal University of Berlin, the body which alone produces the aroma of the vanilla pod can be produced artificially from easily accessible natural substances. What brittle nature has denied us in our latitudes, the researcher wrests from it in a fervent urge for knowledge".

In her book, the author not only acknowledges the achievements of chemists, she also tries to allay consumers' fears of side effects when using vanillin, she writes: "Finally, the flavor is even more subtle than that produced by vanilla because the pods still contain resins and fats that have an unfavorable effect on the fine vanilla aroma. These secondary components of vanilla also have the justifiably feared nerve-racking effect, whereas pure vanillin (...) has no such effect on the human organism."

As a renowned cook, Morgenstern's word had social significance: it also reflected her conviction that good food and culinary enjoyment should be accessible to all levels of society. Haarmann's marketing campaign was successful: both housewives and food manufacturers gave up their doubts about synthetic flavoring. Overall, Morgenstern's book was instrumental in making vanillin a permanent fixture in the food industry and paved the way for the development of other synthetic flavorings.